Balenciaga’s dressing room selfies are cleverly staged: an invitation to customers to come back to the shops, and a reminder, much like Demna’s fall runway show in Paris, that the Balenciaga creative director remains one of the key architects of the look of contemporary fashion.

Creative director Demna found new ways to express his boxy, oversize tailoring: doubling up or padding jackets and shirts; cropping peacoats and trenches and folding the hems under.

Puffer jackets also won’t quit, here bulked up, widened and flaring, but cropped bluntly just past the hip.

This collection pays special attention to tailoring. Double-breasted black blazers were alternately puffed up with a layer of padding, or cropped at the hips, with the hems tucked under in almost makeshift fashion. A third was worn like a wrap, its buttons askew. He cut similar styles in glen plaids and checks.

More so than the runways, Balenciaga’s pre-season collections are devoted to daily wear. And so there were oversize parkas, peacoats and trenches with more of those folded under hems, fluid velvet sweatsuit separates in surprising pastels, and denim in both raver proportions and a newer skinny cut lopped off at the knees. Standing in for the dramatic evening dresses in the March show were a couple of full-length looks in a quotidian key, one dress in a body-conscious knit and a shrunken logo hoodie and matching ankle-length skirt in what looked like stretch velvet.

Balenciaga’s Fall 2023 collection is available at Balenciaga, Level Ground.